This review was written by Cathy Durbridge to hopefully
inspire a few more people to try cross-country skiing
Cross-country skiing in the Pyrenees.
If you were to glance at this page and see the words 'Fart' and 'Fartage',
you would be forgiven for thinking that this article refers to the
after affects of eating lentils. In fact, the word 'Fart' means 'Wax'
in French, and rather than talking about wind, which would be a dubiously
enjoyable read, I am writing about my experience of cross country
skiing in the Pyrenees with a mixed ability Exodus group, which should
be of far more interest!
At the moment, cross-country skiing does not have
the same fame of other skiing disciplines such as downhill. However,
the potential for this sport is huge as it offers something for
everyone. Not only is there the buzz of the downhills (where a good
snow plough stance is very helpful as the classic x-country ski
is longer than a downhill ski, and has no metal edges), but there
is the physical challenge of the uphills, and the joy of the glide
on the flat. In addition, there is every opportunity to enjoy the
stunning scenery of the Pyrenees as you go, within a tranquil atmosphere
and with the feeling of being 'at one with nature'.
France does not lay claim to the beginnings of x-country
skiing, although it is now a popular sport here, with excellently
developed facilities in various areas across the Pyrenees and Alps.
Rather, skiing is thought to have been developed by the migratory
Sami who lived near the Arctic Circle over 4000 years ago, to allow
them to hunt reindeer in deep snow. The word ski also hails from
Norway as it is developed from the old Norse language where a 'skith'
means a stick of wood (though thankfully technology has moved us
forward to lighter materials!). However, with well established cross
country ski stations such as Plateau de Beille, Chioula and Font
Romeu in the midi Pyrenees alone, France is an excellent alternative
to Norway and Finland for a cross country skiing holiday, with higher
ambient temperatures and varied and stunning scenery.
So, how does this sport work? Basically you stand
on 2 ski's (no surprise there then!), but you wear comfortable boots
- one up on alpine skiing perhaps? The base of your skis are waxed
(thus the 'fartage') in order to give you both glide and grip on
the snow. The easy option is to use modern classic skis which have
a central area of 'fish scales' which give you precisely this ability
to go fast downhill, but grip going uphill. The alternative is to
become deeply involved in the art of ski waxing and snow temperatures;
a little beyond a 'debutante' like me..
Classic x-country skiing is in prepared parallel
tracks which are meticulously groomed in order to give optimal conditions
for maximum fun. The tracks are fantastic for beginners and experts
alike - for me it meant that I could concentrate on staying upright
and deciding where to put my poles, rather than trying to direct
my skis around corners. For the more experienced skiers in the group,
it meant that they could get up some great speed and glide, perfecting
their technique. Obviously for me, a challenge did come in getting
in and out of the tracks in the first place, but then where would
the fun be if there were no opportunities for falling over?
One of the best things about this sport is that
you can really push yourself in terms of speed and distance or just
as easily potter around and enjoy the views. As a novice you can
begin to notice an improvement in your balance and technique in
a very short time, meaning that a weeks holiday gives you the chance
to really get to grips with the sport and feel both confident and
relaxed. Having said that, anyone in our group who felt like a more
relaxed afternoon was able to sit in the sun and enjoy the
après (or midday!) ski at the refuge/restaurant at the station.
I can highly recommend the vin chaud for any time of day, and the
food was delicious - including the sausage and lentils 'plat de
jour' at Chioula refuge - which takes me more or less back to where
I started with the Fartage I think
Cathy Durbridge, X country skier Enthusiast!
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